Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
